DIY GOLF – How To Torch Finish Your OWN Wedges!


Our 1st Reader Submitted DIY-GOLF Project

Today is our first installment of our brand new DIY-GOLF section on MyGolfSpy.  We are super excited about bringing this new section to you for many reasons. We set-up this site (MyGolfSpy) for the sole purpose of truly educating golfers on everything about golf equipment.  Like we have said in the past...the majority of sites and golf magazines are simply marketing machines posting biased info about the companies that advertise within their pages. Without the advertisers they simply do not exist.  You rarely get the truth about what is being made and promoted these days in regards to golf equipment.

But we hope to change that mindset at MGS and we believe it is starting to happen.  So we want MyGolfSpy to be the one place you can come for the truth about what is really going on in the industry.  But we also want to shed light on many of the absolutely amazing products that you might never get to see.  Whether it be because of the lack of financial backing, marketing or PR inexperience or any of the other reasons that don't allow these products to reach the masses.  There are some ground-breaking products being made in the golf industry and we want to bring those to the fore front for you guys.  This business has become like many other industries today, where all the bigger companies swallow up many of the innovative mom and pop the meantime squashing their innovative ideas in the process.

And lastly we want to teach everyone out there some of the surprising and fascinating ways the average golfer can customize and personalize their own golf equipment.  And become the DIY-GOLF guy of their own town.  You will be surprised how many golfers are going to be asking you to replicate these DIY GOLF projects on their clubs once you get your project in the bag and on the course for all of them to see.  Some of the guys doing this in their own garages have started their own businesses applying these same DIY skills to other golfers clubs.

So let us begin our 1st reader submitted DIY project for you to try.  Today's DIY GOLF project comes from Shane S.  He wants to teach the MGS readers how to apply their own custom finish on their clubs by using some simple and cheap tools that anyone can pick up at their local hardware store.  If you have a DIY project you would like to post on MyGolfSpy, simply send us an email to [email protected].

DIY - How To Torch Finish Your OWN Wedges!

(WARNING: if quenching in oil during the cool down process make sure to do outside, there is always a risk when dipping a hot head into oil.  You should make sure the head has cooled down considerably when dipping in oil.)

Tools Needed:

  • Propane or Butane Torch - (purchase at any hardware store- Home Depot/Lowe’s (COST = $10-$20)
  • 1 Liter of Coca-Cola - (Cost = $2)
  • Bench Vise - (Cost = $30-$50)
  • Steel Brush - (or the steel end of your club brush) (Cost = $2-$5)
  • Silicone Cloth - (can be purchased at any store that sells guns (Cost = $5)


Step-by-Step Process

STEP 1: First, remove club head from shaft. If head is not removed the intense heat will cause the ferrule to melt and the epoxy to breakdown and a reshaft will be in order even if you keep the club and shaft intact.

STEP 2: Next, you will need to soak the club head using the 1 Liter Coke bottle for about an hour. This will strip any existing finish on the head. Get a bowl that is big enough to allow the head to fit while being fully submerged. Making sure the entire club is submergered will give you a more consistent torching.

STEP 3: Now remove your club from the Coke. Next you will need to secure club head in bench vise. If you do not have a bench vise you can use vise grips to hold the head in place. You will then want to scrub the entire club head with the steel brush or scotch-brite to break up any remaining finish left on the head. Now rinse the club with water (or) degreaser to make sure you get all oil and dirt off the head before torching, then let dry completely. If you do not remove all dirt and oil those areas will show up as different colors and will not be uniform.


STEP 4: Secure club head in bench vise (see picture above). Next you will want to turn on your torch. You will want to apply heat directly to the clubhead in an even manner. The best heat is achieved when the pencil flame of the torch is approx. 2 inches away from head. This will take some time to get the torch finish you are looking for. You will generally not begin to see any changes for at least 4-5 minutes. Patience is the key with this type of finish.

Tip: If you want to experiment you can also place the head in oil while head is cooling down or rub oil on the head during the cooling process to achieve different style finishes. You can also use an oven to do the heating process. (WARNING: if quenching in oil during the cool down process make sure to do outside, there is always a risk when dipping a hot head into oil.  You should make sure the head is not that hot when dipping in oil.)


Tip: For a template of different temperatures and colors of steel when heated: CLICK HERE

STEP 5: Once you have reached your desired color from torching, remove heat source and then let cool for 45 minutes. Make sure to leave in a safe place while the head cools down. Your club has probably reached temperatures of 450*+ and it is best to be safe than sorry. If torch finish is not consistent or did not turn out the colors you liked, simply repeat the flaming step.

STEP 6: Since your club has been stripped of its original finish, it is now considered to be in the ‘RAW’ state. You club will in fact rust when exposed to the elements. The best way to combat rust is to apply a Silicone Cloth to the club after each use/round.


Tip: With any DIY project that requires the altering of a club (refinish, stamping, paintfill, etc) it is best to practice on an old club first versus going out and performing your first trial run on your gaming set of clubs. Dig in the garage, look at used clubs at a local shop or ‘borrow’ one from your buddies.

BEFORE PHOTOS: Titleist Spin Milled with the Tour Chrome Finish


AFTER PHOTOS: (torched finish with white paint fill)

Finished product (with white paint fill-Testors Model Paint-available at any hobby store)


flamed wedge

flaming wedges


Want to post your own DIY project on MyGolfSpy?  Simple send your idea to [email protected] and we will email you the DIY guidelines. Every published DIY author will receive a prize from MyGolfSpy! (cash, equipment & apparel prizes to be awarded)


- "How To Torch Finish Your Own Wedges!"

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{ 81 comments… read them below or add one }

Wedge King June 17, 2013 at 1:45 pm

I restore wedges as a hobby and love the black-oxide look. I have not had success being able to change clubs with a chrome finish. Coke with take the finish off raw and oilcan but it doesn’t seem to do anything to chrome finished clubs – what’s the best way to apply a black-oxide finish to a chrome finished club? If you have any suggestions or have figured out a way to apply a nice black finish to a chrome club please let me know. Thanks!


Wedge King June 16, 2013 at 9:55 pm

I refinish wedges all the time but have not been able to create a black-oxide look on a chrome club. I can do it with black nickle and raw / oilcan finish. Coke doesn’t do ANYTHING to a club with a chrome finish. If someone knows of a way to turn a chrome club black please let me know what the secret is – shoot me an email if you have any suggestions [email protected]


Anthony June 10, 2013 at 11:50 pm

Will do mgs not as pretty as some of the examples but will give a first timer a good idea of what to expect


Anthony June 10, 2013 at 5:50 pm

Just did this to my taylormade atv came out awesome thanks MGS!


mygolfspy June 10, 2013 at 6:32 pm

Shoot us over some pics of the newly torched ATV’s 😉


Wedge King June 16, 2013 at 9:56 pm

what email address would you like pictures sent too?


CDD May 10, 2013 at 11:33 am

How about putting the club head on the grill over charcoal? Curious if anyone has tried or thought of this.


bo andrew April 18, 2012 at 3:01 pm

Hey guys I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge!! Been trying to learn how to do this forever, I kno a bunch of guys that do it and do an awesome job, but they will not say anything about how they do it!

I have a rare set of titleist 660s, I don’t think they are chrome because they are stainless steel. They have extensive bag chatter as any forged clubs do. I am looking for a way to get the finish off and make the clubs look almost new, I’ve been reshafting and fitting clubs for years, not really worried about the lie,loft, ferrul, shaft and putting it back together. Would someone please give me A to Z instructions on how to complete my task?!? I would be eternally greatful!
Bo Andrew [email protected]


Blair mitchell December 3, 2016 at 4:42 pm

I’ve had success using loctite naval jelly to remove finishes of wedges. Not sure about chrome as it is a plating. I used it on a sm5 jet black finish and it now has a nice brushed raw finish using the jelly and a steel wool pad.


Nick February 23, 2012 at 10:43 pm

What type / brand of paint works best when restoring or changing wedges to repaint the loft, brand name, the spin milled insignia, etc…? I’m not talking about painting the whole club-head, just touchups.


Devin January 16, 2012 at 3:58 pm

Will baby oil work for the cool down process?


Frazer November 17, 2011 at 12:58 pm

What i want to know has any one seen the pic of the club and its gold? How do you do that? and How do you get such a good finnish on that last one?


Malissa April 2, 2011 at 9:55 am

“Tip: If you want to experiment you can also place the head in oil while head is cooling down or rub oil on the head during the cooling process to achieve different style finishes. You can also use an oven to do the heating process. (WARNING: if quenching in oil during the cool down process make sure to do outside, there is always a risk when dipping a hot head into oil. You should make sure the head is not that hot when dipping in oil.)”

This is a good tip. perfect to my needs. I’ll be watching this post. thanks!


Jonathan December 9, 2010 at 9:16 am

Has anyone tried this on a Taylormade XFT wedge? I’m afraid to try because of the removable face. Also, I think I would have to have the finish professionally stripped first. Great post by the way. Everyone should try this at home. Very addictive.


Bob November 15, 2010 at 8:41 pm

Will this work on vokey tour nickel wedges? or any nickel wedges? or only raw and/or oil can wedges?


Walt Goshert- Golf Putting Caddy September 28, 2010 at 12:28 pm


Thanks for your comment and link to

A buddy gave me a set of old Taylor Made Forged Blades …

I’ve been playing them for two seasons and love ’em… want to refurbish them from top to bottom.


Kevin August 31, 2010 at 12:10 pm

i have black scratch wedges but love the look of the scratch wedge above. has anyone tried this on black wedges??? would the coca cola bring them back to raw or am i missing something???

also, is that an example of dipped into oil while still a little hot or how did they come out so shinny???



Tyler August 26, 2010 at 12:14 am

I want to do my entire iron set this way. I have some Mizuno MX-23’S. They are cavity back and I didn’t know if it was possible to do without harming the playability of the club. I like the torch finish but would really like a black finish. Is this possible? And if so what would be the process to remove the chrome finish?


Kevin August 27, 2010 at 9:58 am

Black is possible if you can get all the chrome off.


Geoff August 5, 2010 at 11:15 am

If my scotty cameron putter(studio select 1.5 flow neck) has what appears to be a matte finish I assume I need to remove the matte first? What’s the best way to do this? Mild sand paper followed by fine paper or steel wool?


2ndSwingGolf July 25, 2010 at 8:18 pm

How does this finish change the feel? Or is it only a look thing?


Justin June 21, 2010 at 12:24 am

So instead of Coke, we should take it to someone to have the chrome stripped off? Just curious, because I have a Vokey 200-series 60*. It shows one in the pictures, but I’m confused… was that particular Vokey Coke-stripped, or professionally stripped?


Nick Fernandez May 11, 2010 at 2:33 pm

Hey i wanted to know if this would work on ping wedges/ irons like the tour w wedges and s58 irons. Also would this process work on a ping redwood putter


MATT June 25, 2010 at 8:47 pm

I wouldn’t do the 58’s due to the rubber piece in the cavity of the club. But, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work on the Redwood.


C. Evans April 9, 2010 at 3:05 pm

The carbon steel clubs, for those wanting to do this, will slightly harden when heated, especially with a torch because of the heat required to make the metal change colors. It has the same effect of case hardening, in essence, when you quench it in any solution (oil or water) the metal hardens a little. It’s best to let a flame finished club cool naturally. It won’t harden the metal like quenching would. If you like the buttery feel of your putter and you don’t want it to get clicky, but want to flame it, make sure that you let it air dry or it’ll go from buttery to clicky. Stainless is a little better as far as hardening resietance, but it will slightly become more clicky.

As far as oiling it, I prefer to use Rem Oil gun oil or CRC spray silicone. The silicone rags will work, but you’re not going to get it in the crevices like you would with a liquid or a spray on silicone. You’ll protect it better by spraying or pouring the oil on and letting it air dry. Also, to help against rust (for carbon more than stainless because stainless is a lot more resistant) make sure to dry the putter very well before putting it in the head cover as well as wiping it off after every green. The chemicals they use on greens and moisture will create rust very fast on a torched carbon head, and will eventually lead to rust on a stainless head. And when you get home, take the headcover off and let everything dry out and air out before putting the cover on it.

If you’re flaming it, also remove the paintfill before doing so or you’ll melt the paint and have spots on the club around where the paint was. You can remove it easily by submersing it in acetone or spraying it with aircraft stripper or citristrip. Any of those will work, with citristrip being the least caustic.

As for doing it in a conventional oven, you can, but you’re not going to go much past the first color change (the wheat color similar to the Scotty Cameron California finish). It just doesn’t get hot enough to get blues and purples.

As for clubs other than putters, especially wedges, you’ll get wear patterns much faster on them than a putter because of forces of impact on the ball and with the ground, especially wedges used out of the sand. Hot black oxide treatments are a better bet for that.


Rowland March 21, 2010 at 10:53 pm

I want to do this to my putter. Its a Bettinardi C series. its soft carbon steel i think. Would the Coke work on this finish or not? Would I have to sand blast of the original finish then go through the steps? Help, please. Great post BTW got lots of cool wedges now


Teag March 3, 2010 at 8:38 pm

I have never heard of doing this to clubs before but it sounds awesome. Thanks Kevin for all the great answers but is there any general time to cook the head in the oven. Thanks


Kevin March 3, 2010 at 11:35 pm


I have never done a club in the oven. I know some in the putter business do it and it takes well over an hour.



isaac Italiaander March 1, 2010 at 6:36 pm

So instead of torching, we can just heat it in an oven? Is that what you are saying?


Kevin March 2, 2010 at 3:25 pm

As stated above–It takes a lot longer and the color will be more uniform throughout the club head.


John March 1, 2010 at 12:57 pm

Great info, thanks for posting that


Kevin February 26, 2010 at 8:55 pm

No special oil needed. Any oil will work.


Kevin February 26, 2010 at 8:42 pm

Torching is not permanent. It will rust if the torching is done on a raw carbon steel wedge.


greg February 26, 2010 at 8:44 pm

is there any way to prevent it from rusting and preserve the color after torching?


Kevin February 26, 2010 at 8:48 pm

Keeping it oiled between rounds.


greg February 26, 2010 at 8:50 pm

thanks for the quick responses Kevin, what kind of oil do I use? a certain brand or type?


greg February 26, 2010 at 8:37 pm

Does torching make the finish permanent? will it still rust?


mike February 26, 2010 at 3:40 pm

Any sugestions on changing a chrome wedge?


taylor February 20, 2010 at 1:04 am

what kind of oil should i use to create a oil can effect. just got my scotty back from the custom shop and got it refinished to the original oil can finish and i want to fool around with one of my backup putters


Gregg February 19, 2010 at 12:30 pm

I’ve picked up several wedges to work on lately – some worked good, others not so good – but most of the wedges I look at are stainless steel. Obviously, this process won’t work on them. I gave one to buddy of mine who used a welding torch on it – came out looking really raw!


rob February 16, 2010 at 10:46 am

MGS – thanks. To tell you the truth I generally like to respect the forums that I participate in and am not casual when it comes to mentioning other sites.
That said, when an article such as this and others that I have found here and elsewhere provide such unique information I will more than take the hit from someone saying my post is “spam”.
I look forward to you continuing to provide new and interesting info so that I might continue that trend.
BTW – belated Happy Presidents Day 😉


mygolfspy February 16, 2010 at 10:49 am

Well thanks Rob – in all honesty they are only considered spam because they don’t like promoting other sites. Which in my opinion goes against what a forum is supposed to be about. And that is the reason we are launching our own. We want it to be a place people can come to learn all kinds of things about the game. Thanks again for your support of MGS Rob.


rob February 15, 2010 at 8:10 am

A thread about this just came up on Golf Discussions. I replied in it and posted a link so members there could stop by and read the process.
I neglected in my last post here to applaud Shane for a well written, well presented article.
Happy Presidents Day 😉


mygolfspy February 15, 2010 at 4:07 pm

Thanks for spreading the word Rob.


rob February 10, 2010 at 3:56 pm

Just read this – the tinkerer in me will definately give this a try – The Vokeys are sharp – nice paint fill btw.


JORDAN January 22, 2010 at 9:15 pm



Nicholas December 22, 2009 at 2:42 pm

is it easier to pop it in the oven, same effect?


Kevin December 23, 2009 at 9:47 am

It takes a lot longer and the color will be more uniform throughout the club head.


Jared December 14, 2009 at 12:18 am

i got three prototype putters and i want to know what i must quench them in to hold the finish longer? deep penetrating, but any specifics the experts can suggest?


Kevin December 23, 2009 at 9:46 am

The way you quench it won’t affect durability. It will help in varying the colors that are produced by the torching.


Kevin December 11, 2009 at 1:30 pm

The black pearl most likely has a layer of chrome under the black.


chris December 10, 2009 at 10:32 pm

Is the coke suppose to remove the finish on CG12’s black pearl?


chris December 10, 2009 at 10:31 pm

Ok so this won’t work with Chrome, and I tired my CG12’s black pearl still no go and other advice?


mygolfspy December 11, 2009 at 12:32 pm

Kevin – can you lead him in the best direction. Chris Kevin is at and he does this everyday…so I would like to put you in touch with the expert finsher.


Golfakademie December 9, 2009 at 11:38 am

all the stuffs are looking so good.
thank you for the post.
keep going on.


mygolfspy December 9, 2009 at 11:41 am

Thanks for stopping by and commenting…we hope you continue to be a part of MGS. And thanks for the compliments about the article.


Jared December 7, 2009 at 1:46 am

I do a lot of paint-filling and i use a good quality nail polish. brush it over the lettering until it’s covered. then when it’s dry, take a craft blade and at 45* angle and peel away the excess. lasts really long. especially on the wedges. i’ll send MGS pics.


mygolfspy December 8, 2009 at 10:31 am

Look forward to the pics Jared 😉


Muttley December 4, 2009 at 3:19 pm

this is great, had a guy come to the pro shop today with a ruined scotty cameron circa 62. it now looks amazing with blueish tinge to it, he will be pleased. what sort of paint should i use to touch it up tough? also i might do my studio select, any idea how this would work with the weights? if not how can i get them out? might look sexy with a black head and shiny weights.


Kevin December 4, 2009 at 3:55 pm
Kevin December 3, 2009 at 2:50 pm

Most plating shops can strip the chrome for a reasonable price. It is not my favorite thing to do as it is hit and miss on getting it all off effectively.


Chris December 2, 2009 at 5:42 am

Can anyone recommend where to get Silicone Cloth in Wales? We don’t have many gun shops LOL. Looking forward to MGS readers pics. Remember guys safety first.


mygolfspy December 3, 2009 at 12:09 pm

That’s a good question Chris.


Heny December 1, 2009 at 3:28 pm

MGS, when you talk about stripping the chrome off irons/wedges, are you talking about the coke doing it in step 2? Or bringing to a chroming shop to have it professionally dechromed. I’m assuming the first vokey wedge was stripped of its chrome using coke.


mygolfspy December 3, 2009 at 12:00 pm

Coke will NOT strip off chrome. You would have to remove the chrome before attempting this. You can remove the chrome a few different ways. Kevin at who has commented on this article could do this for you I am sure. Kevin you there?


Kevin December 1, 2009 at 12:59 pm

Great to see other DIY articles.

Couple of problems with this one.

You really should have a strong warning on how dangerous it is to do this process.
Quenching hot metal in oil is asking for a disaster.
Coke won’t strip chrome.


Jared December 1, 2009 at 1:05 am

Hey MGS peeps. i have a forged Mizuno 65* wedge that i want to try and get this finish on, but it is chrome/nickel plated. Is this an issue?
Oh and thanks for this awesome post! gonna do it on my new putters i’ve made! if it works well on the wedge. Thanks guys.


mygolfspy December 1, 2009 at 12:10 pm

Yes you would have to strip the finish before trying this type of finish Jared. Send us some pics of your putter work we would love to see the finish you come up with. This becomes addictive!


Garry November 30, 2009 at 6:46 am

becareful on hot hot you get the heads. Get some metal to hot and you take oput teh “temper” The heat and cooling process can and will change the loft and lie on a forged club. You will want to put your irons in a loft and like machine and check each one you heat up..


mygolfspy November 30, 2009 at 7:21 am

If you use the blue propane torches you really don;t need to worry. They d onot get hot enough to do damage. If you are buying the green ones or the other color (cant remember right now) then you need to be careful.


Steve July 10, 2010 at 9:53 am

-that other color is yellow and the cans contain a hotter-burning gas called MAPP gas…


Chris November 30, 2009 at 5:10 am

I’m always amazed at the corrosive power of cola, yet we all guzzle the stuff down. Can you use Diet Coke I wouldn’t want my wedges to get fat? Great article MGS keep them coming.


mygolfspy November 30, 2009 at 7:24 am

Thanks Chris…we hope to have many more coming down the pipeline for you guys.


RoverRick January 12, 2012 at 11:18 pm

There is nothing worse than hitting a fat wedge shot.


Parker November 29, 2009 at 7:43 pm

Wow. If only I had a garage to do this in. This is really a great look, and it doesn’t seem too difficult to pull off. Just need some time and some elbow grease.


mygolfspy November 30, 2009 at 7:25 am

You don’t have to have a garage..I would just make sure you do not do it inside the house. Because of the fumes and the hot oil.


matt November 29, 2009 at 6:46 pm

Any idea on how it wears ? wouldnt it be cool to do this to an entire set of blades!


mygolfspy November 30, 2009 at 7:26 am

Well it wears fairly easily, although there is a better solution and that is dipping it in deep penetrating oil when it is almost cooled this will help it last longer.


Bob November 29, 2009 at 1:19 pm

will this same technique work on irons?


CjHz November 29, 2009 at 8:23 pm
mygolfspy November 30, 2009 at 7:27 am

Yes as long as they are raw or oil can finish. You will have to strip the finish if not…once finish is stripped you can do this to almost all irons.


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